Sunday, June 1, 2008
June Snow
I love the Yukon :)
Licensed to the Yukon
I also have to take a Level 4 driving test, which unfortunately involved a written knowledge test. I'm not gonna lie- I failed my G1 knowledge test. There, I've said it. Embarassing but true. Likely the first milestone test that I had ever failed. And living in a rural area, the stakes were even higher for that almighty plastic piece of certified adulthood. So, you can imagine my anxiety over writing the Level 4 test.
You can also imagine my embarassment when I realized I had read the the Driver's handbook and Level 4 abstract over 4 full times, to write was turned out to be a 10 question multiple choice test in which you could get 2 questions wrong. But, in the end it didn't matter.
I passed theknowledge test! Hooray. No more reliving childhood scars of public shame. Instead, I can look forward to the soon-to-be-heckling I will no doubt endure from my co-trainees when I have to haul the three pillows I will need to see over the dashboard of Leonard the Passenger bus. Now graceful way to hide that. I'm not even going to think about what kind of contraption I'll have to rig up so I can reach the pedals. And the judging eyes of my road test examiner when I have to oh-so-gracefully climb up over my mountain of pillows to make my vehicle entrance.
Yeah, this is going to be fun.
UPDATE: Again, because of my posting delays, I can report that I've had a chance to drive in the 15-passenger van and it is NOT pretty. I'm not high enough up to see completely clear of the hood, but high enough that my feet dangle a little from the floor. The offset of the pedals creates a new challenge: when I get my seat far enough forward to reach the gas, then I almost can't get my foot around to get to the brake. Makes stopping and starting into intersections a little nervy. We'll see how it all pans out. Could be interesting. Luckily, I can take my road test on any car of my choosing (how wild is that...road test on a Echo and they let you loose to drive a 15-passenger bus?!). Maybe I will have to look into rigging up some kind of pedal extension and seat pillow....
Stop giggling....it's not funny...
The bell tolls for the bell
I haven't had a chance to get away from the city to do much hiking yet. In fact, being that most people drive an average of 2hrs to get anywhere (kids from Kluane will drive the 2hrs to come to a movie without thinking twice), I may not get to see too much for a while. I have had a chance to roam around a lot of the biking trails on the east side of the Yukon River though. There's a bit of all types and levels of trails and I am being challenged by most of them. In fact, I'm getting schooled regularly. It started out with the usual Tera-falls: not quite unclipping before my bike teeters over. Such a battle between getting a few more pedal strokes in and not being able to unclip in time to get a foot on the ground before my bike topples me over. Embarassing when it happens on the street. And it does. Often. I blame Steve for talking me into switching to clips. Yes, it does make hills a whole lot easier and stops you from bouncing off your pedals causing your bits to crush onto the top tube. But, so not elegant when you fall over in the middle of the intersection when you just didn't quite get your foot out in time. People stare, to stifle their giggles and your pride takes the bulk of the road rash. Awkward all around.
However, I have officially graduated beyond just the beginner's tip-over bruises and odd tree head-ons. I had my first "epic" crash last week. I was getting a little too cocky going downhill around a hairpin turn, going a little too fast in ground a little too deep and my back tire washed out a little too much. I slapped the ground mighty hard- enough to bounce. But, other than a little brain rattle and whiplast, I now had a much better, exciting story to explain my bashed and bruised body. Oh yeah, I'm a mountain biker (although I'll never own up to what a Granny I was riding the rest of that trail...).
And this week, I've uped the ante with my new best epic fall. This time, I was being very responsible going down the hill and I've sufficiently scared myself that as soon as the ground starts getting deep, I Granny up. But then I spotted the lung-screaming hill just on the otherside of the downhill and thought I'd better let go a bit to get up enough speed to make some feeble attempt at the uphill. That's when my front tire washed out. My first ever over-the-bars somersault, followed perfectly by my bike doing likewise overtop of me, was textbook. Oops. Luckily, my well padded frontal took most of the impact. As did my poor little bell.
A fatal blow I'm afraid. I tried to piece it back together, but no luck. This would be my second bell in not even a year. My first bell was a fatality in one of the aforementioned intersection tip-overs in the fall. At least this guy had a much more spectacular demise. Luckly for the bony bits of me, I'm still in tact. Some sore ribs and new bruises to add to the collection but more importantly, bragging rites that I am now a bonefide mountain biker.
I am now however, scarred with fear of downtown intersections, deep sand, hairpins, downhills and following uphills. Not a whole lot to work with. Maybe I should learn to crochet in my spare time instead. Dee assures me it's a workout and I don't think you get as many bruises...
UPDATE: Since it's taken me over a week to post this post, I've antied up with a newer, more epic crash. Again, escaped with minor bruises and rash, but definitely knocked me down a few pegs. No more epic crashes for a while. I've officially switched to the Granny perma-brake riding squad. I hear it's much less epic.
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
The Whitehorse digs
Pretty standard. It's a good size and NOLS has been able to provide enough furniture for us to work with. The branch is in a warehouse right closeby.
It's a super big space so both Dan and I have lots of room to work with (until the students arrive at least).
Dan has a big area for rations prep and storage,
and I have the equipment area (very backstock-esque).
I even have a little store/retail area, complete with a MEC skid waiting for me to break down- ahh nostalgia!
So far, we've been busy pulling things apart and cleaning/organizing so that we can figure out what we have and where it all is. It's tedious, it's dirty and it's beats sitting at a desk hands down :)No Sleep for a Long Sun
Saturday, May 17, 2008
Woohoo Whitehorse (Day 20)
We've unpacked our gear (speeded by the fact that we didn't actually bring that much) and off-loaded the first pick of the furniture that NOLS keeps for staff and we've pretty much ready to settle in. We both start work on Monday and wandering around the branch warehouse, it looks like a really fun place to be. As the Equipment Manager, I have my own little "store" and a skid of MEC gear (a taste of home) just waiting for me to tear into. Dan's got a huge area for all the rations storage and to his delight, there is no food prep at this branch so he won't be on the hook to cook :)
We had a celebratory feast at Sanchez restaurant last night. It's this awesome little Mexican restaurant with menus in Spanish and a fantastic latin American ambiance. Total throwback to South America, so I was ecstatic! We had a fantastic meal of authentic mexican food washed down with a Corona and lime. Ahhhh. Life is good :)
The weather was overcast and rainy again today, but we hopped on our bikes, braved the descent into the canyon to downtown and went exploring. My first impressions of Whitehorse are that it seems to have a tonne of really cool shops and a fantastic bike trail system. People are really friendly and super helpful. We grabbed a map from the local bike shop and hope to make some time tomorrow to do a little riding and exploring. The Yukon River runs along the downtown waterfront and the buildings all have a very unique, goldrush-town vibe. And, the best part, there's a Farmer's Market! Local food and goodies every Thursday afternoon. Sweet!
We also went to the library and got hooked up with temporary resident lending cards. We're officially Whitehorse residents...sort of. Seems there is a pretty big transient population here- the guy from the bike shop has only been here 3 days (and his girlfriend is from Almonte ON) and every person we've stopped to ask for directions has just moved here too!
We managed to pick up some great grabs at the Salvation Army and find some food that we can cook on the camp stove for the weekend, until the power comes on. Hopefully the weather will be good tomorrow and we can hope on our bikes and explore some of the recreation trails.
This road trip has been a fantastic adventure. Some 6538km later, we managed not to kill each other (or even come close in fact) and we've been privy to see a smorgasboard of the diverse landscapes across Canada. A trip like this totally makes you appreciate how lucky we are to live in such a beautiful country. And although the camping was really fun (and I can say neither of us really tired of it), we're both also happy to stay put for a while. And I'm sure Gus will appreciate the rest and celebratory oil change :)
Hello Whitehorse!
The final leg to Whitehorse (Day 19)
Today was the final leg of our trip- we were getting to Whitehorse or bust! The wind had subsided a bit, so the drive was a little better, but not long in the car the rain finally started. We saw a bunch more buffalo this morning, right up close to the car (but not too close)
and enoug caribou that the mad photo-snapping had subsided. The fog from the rain had settled into the mountain tops, but made for some really great views.
We stopped for our lunch break in the town of Teslin YK which conveniently happened to be home of the Northern Wildlife Museum.
I'm not usually one to wander around a room full of taxiderm, creepily life-like dead animals, but I've been pleasantly surprised by each of the museums I've been to on this trip. And, I have to hand it to Teslin, I think the get the gold star (I know I said the same things about Grande Cache, but I think Teslin has them beat). They have scene diaoramas set up that are some life-like, and the animals are preserved so well that it looks more like a movie set than a taxidermy display. I was really impressed.
Our next stop was Johnson's Crossing YK. The village basically consists of one shop, which is a gas bar, convenience store and, most importantly, bakery. Their ad in the vistor's guide I had claimed they had "World Famous Cinnimon Buns" and since we had already sampled the best in the Galactic Cluster in Tetsa River, I figured we should really stop and compare. So we did.
When the last bite was done and the icing sugar wiped clean from the plate, I think we both agreed that Johnson Crossing had the best cinnamon buns we've come across. They were scandalous huge, fluffy and super fresh. I hear there's one more stop on the cinnamon bun war tour, but this one is north of Whitehorse. Maybe a later side trip :)
With our cinnamon bun bloated bellies hardly started digesting, we finally came upon the sign we had been waiting for:
We had made it. We were finally in Whitehorse! And, the mountains are right here too. The downtown core appears to be on one side of the Alaska Highway, in a canyon right by the river (hauling groceries up that is going to be fun). We turned off the other side of the Highway to our new summer home in the Hillcrest district.
And, the branch where we'll be working for the summer isn't more that 200m into the industrial park from our apartment. So, it looks like we're all set. We're both pretty excited to finally be here and we can't wait to get out of the car (although Gus has been a star) and explore. The summer is looking pretty awesome.
Thursday, May 15, 2008
Liard River to the Yukon! (Day 18)
Things were still pretty quiet here, but there were a few little trails that we could explore. We also met back up with a few of the Aussie RV calvary. In the park, the tall lodgepole pines protected us from most of the wind, so it turned out to be a really pleasant evening. We wandered around a few of the trails and were able to get down to see the still-ice covered Watson Lake.
It feels a little colder tonight, so hopefully we'll be warm enough in our tent.
Hot Springs in Liard River (Day 17)
We made a semi-lunch stop in Tetsa River for a taste from the "Cinn-Bunn Centre of the Galactic Cluster"...mmmmm. Then we found ourselves on the Caribou Highway- and they aren't kidding. Caribous everywhere!
We had to make numerous stops, sometimes to let the caribous clear the road and mostly just to snap another photo.
To make things a little more interesting, the road also started to get steeper and windier (you never quite knew what was waiting around the next turn...) and we were soon back into the thick of the Northern Rockies. Our drop into the valley of Taylor BC was pretty spectacular!
Aside from a few spots where crews were filling potholes, the road is still in great shape. To Dan's delight, the end of Caribou Highway led straight into the start of "Buffalo Crossing" part of the Alaska Highway. And it didn't disappoint.
These guys are so huge! At some points, they were right beside the car, eyeballing us as we passed or as we waited from them to lumber off the road (and Gus really isn't in much of a fighting position to rush one of these guys away).
Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park was our stop for the day. Not only was this our first open provincial park so far, but we were joined by a caravan of 21 RVs of Aussies travelling from Seattle to Anchorage. And the hot springs were FANTASTIC! There are two natural hot springs pools- the top one was so hot that we could only stay in for about 10min. The walk back down to the primary pool was enough to cool off and head back into the sulfur warmth.
The top end of the pool, near the spring opening was almost scalding and that wasn't even within 20m of the top! By the time I got out, my silver ring had been turned an iridescent copper colour,
I was completely pruny and all dopey sleepy. It was about all I could do to drag myself back to the tent and despite still having almost full daylight at 10pm, I think I was asleep before my head even hit my pillow.
Grande Prairie AB to Prophet River BC (Day 16)
Goodbye Grande Prairie!
Monday, May 12, 2008
Mountain Oasis in Grande Cache AB (Day 15)
This morning's weather picked up right where last night left off- gorgeously warm sunshine and a cloudless sky. Everything was pretty frosted and condensation damp, so we had to dry out the tent and sleeping bags on the fencepost before heading out. Sitting in the morning sun with a warm cup of tea in your hands while you look out over a snow-crusted lake is pretty arduous, but we sucked it up for the sake of our gear.
After an unplanned detour (ie., I may have temporarily boggled the navigation to get in the right direction out on the highway...), we were en route down the "Scenic Route to Alaska" towards Grande Cache.
And it only got better. The snowcaps on the mountains got closer as we gained elevation (~1400m) and rounded Grande Cache Lake.
Once we hit Grande Cache, we stopped in at what has so far been, by FAR, the coolest Visitor's Centre yet.
This town is GORGEOUS! First of all, it's the neighbour town to the Willmore Wilderness Park, full of trails and animals and mountains. Although it's a true oil and gas town (we are in Alberta), the town still has a lot of outdoor culture. We found out (from the super friendly Info staff) that a local doctor has designed a "Passport to the Peaks" program where he's assigned each of the 21 peaks to a passport that you can complete. You work your way through the hikes to the peaks at each the bronze, silver or gold level, stamp your passport with the stamp in the summit box and then once you've completed all the peaks a level, you send it off to the doctor for your level's pin. How cool is that?! On top of this, Grande Cache is also host to the Canadian Death Race, a wicked 125km mountain race through the local peaks. Right up your alley Jodi! Apparently there's also a big concert too and the town swells to double its size!
Both of us are completely taken with this little town. We had a little tour and a scrumptious lunch at the local bistro (that makes all homemade food and they don't offer french fries on the menu!) and then made our way to Sulfur Gates, a little lookout trail that the Info staff suggested.
First off, you can camp here...with your horse. They provide corrals and stall areas for you and your horse (I've gotta try that sometime).
Sulfur (aka Hell's) Gate sits at the foot of Mount Stearn,
and is the confluence of two rivers that meet right at these huge sulfur buttes, Sulfur Gate.
It's absolutely gorgeous. And on a clear day like today, all you can see is the panorama of mountains around. The water and the mountains together are totally breathtaking. And to top it off, we finally saw a moose as we drove away.
Although we had to force ourselves back into the car, we eventually made our way to Grande Prairie AB where we'll spend the night at Saskatoon Lake Provincial Park (if all works out). Here in the city, the sun is still out full bore and there's a whole lot less snow on the ground. We haven't quite made our way to the park yet, since I've managed to "piggy-back" (a polite word for scam) a wireless internet connection from the good people at the Podolan Inn & Spa. It looks like a nice inn, just a little out of our price range.
We're currently hiding behind the hotel and the glare from the sun on my screen is making it almost impossible to see what I'm typing, let alone to sort through the zillions of mountain photos we've taken. So, in the next day or two (when I have a more legitimate connection), I'll get the photos up that go along with all these descripts. Hopefully they live up to how gorgeous all this really is.
Jasper to Hinton AB (Day 14)
Sascha, the hostel manager, suggested a few short hikes for us to try. We started off with the little hike behind the hostel which was supposed to give a really good lookoff of the mountains to the west, but the drizzly sky stole a bit of the view. Then we headed across the road to the Athabasca Falls.
and the rock overhand that shelters some of the boardwalk.
Then we made a quick exit before we got tangled up in any more tour buses.
We had a walk around in Jasper before we headed off to Maligne Canyon, which had been recommended to us by Sascha and one of the park officers in the info centre. On our way out of Jasper, we drove by a big group of elk who are apparently semi-permanent grazing residents of Jasper town.
Maligne Canyon turned out to be a really beautiful walk.
The canyon houses an underground river system that spans 15km between two lakes (Maligne and Medicine Lake). We started out at the bottom of the canyon, passing different seepages (holes where you got a little glimpse of the water among the ice)
by the deep throat of the canyon
until we got to the waterfall at the top.
Being out in the sunshine was a welcome change from the weather we have had so far in Alberta. We almost didn't want to get back in the car, but the drive out supplied our greatest wildlife viewing yet. I saw my first wolf (or coyote?) crossing over the road,
followed by two different herds of big-horn sheep,
past more elk and a few white-tailed deer,
and finale with a huge, bearded and horned elk. Wicked!
We ended up at William Switzer Provincial Park, just outside of Hinton AB. We were back in pretty thick snow cover, but we managed to find a sunny, dry spot with a great view of Jarvis lake.
The washrooms are open and the well even draws up water. And, it was so sunny and warm, we sat in our shirts, for the first time this trip, and just soaked in the sun. And, still no bugs. Sweet!
It got a little chilly as the sun was going down, so we wandered off on a little jaunt only to be met by what we thought were park officers (suppose we should in fact self-register and pay afterall...). It turned out to be a really nice older couple who normally supply the firewood for the camp and were just poking around to see if anyone was looney enough to be camping (Hello). Even by the time we got in the tent, it was still a lot warmer than it's been, even if we are camping in snow.