Wawa to Pukaskwa National Park

By the time we finished lunch in the car in Wawa, we were in a full-on snow squall. And this kept up for most of the day's driving along Lake Superior.

When we reached Pukaskwa (PUCK-ask-QUAW) National Park, the administration office was actually open! The good part about that was we were able to get some info about the park's hiking trails and buy some firewood- the downside was we had to pay park fees. And I'm pretty sure the staff thought we were completely insane tenting in snow flurries :)

We came to Pukaskwa on recommendation from Denise and the park is gorgeous. It's nestled in the bays of Lake Superior on the Pic River Ojibway First Nations Reserve (I'm sure there's some deep politics involved in that). Being that it's April and snowing, we also have the entire park to ourselves! Once Dan and I got the tent set up to dry out, we headed off on the Spirit Trail which follows the peninsula around the northside of Horseshoe Bay. This is a new trail (not even on the trail map yet) and the park is building some pretty impressive boardwalks and lookouts over Horseshoe Bay.


The trail then leads you back towards a huge driftwood-scattered sandy beach. You could build a whole neighbourhood with the wood that washes up on the beach.


We made supper by the beach back at Horseshoe Bay and I was teeth-chatteringly cold by the time we were through. While starting up a campfire at the tent site, I was a little startled to see a truck drive up. From scamming free camping in closed parks (and perhaps a little resulting guilt) I think Dan and I have adopted a deer-in-the-headlights position anytime we hear motorized vehicles, certain we are going to get yelled at and thrown out of the area. So, when this truck came along at dusk, I think I was a little leary of what or who it would bring. I gave a friendly wave and the truck stops dead. Oh no. But, to my delight (and relief) a very friendly, warm man climbed down from the truck and came over to greet me.

Ken (as I was soon introduced) is from the nearby Pic River Ojibway First Nation community. He was out for a drive (he has a trapline through the park) and spotted us. He joined us for the rest of the night, entertaining us with stories, history and culture of the Ojibway people. He was completely candid about his life and his past, very open and willing to share, so I was able to ask him all kinds of (likely ridiculous) questions. He told us about the Seven Teachings (love-eagle, respect-buffalo, courage-bear, honesty-sasquach, wisdom-beaver, humility-wolf, truth-turtle) and different natural wilderness medicines- you can close a bleeding cut with birch sap! At one point, he even got out his drum and sang a few songs for us, including a song asking for the Creator to protect us on our travels. How nice is that?! During one of his other songs, a little white rabbit came along. Not like he just happened to be hopping through the forest and came upon us, but like he was called over. He kept moving closer and closer to Ken and just stayed there for a bit. Then calmly hopped off, just like that. For this, Ken gave us some tobacco to sprinkle in the fire to offer thanks for sending the rabbit to us. Very, very cool.

Our fire died down and Ken climbed back in the truck and bid us goodnight. He offered to come back in the morning with some hot drinks for us too. What a sweetie! And what a treat to meet him and spend some time with him. I love these fantastic people that destiny collides you with when you're travelling!